Golding Notes
An Interview with Bend Brewing Company’s Brewmaster, Tonya Cornett.
By Angelo De Ieso II
Of the 69 categories at the Great American Beer Festival, the American-Style IPA (Category No. 39) was the most entered at the 2006 fest held last September in Denver.
The winner, which came of 94 entries, was Bend Brewing Co.’s HopHead. Truly an imperial but far from bombasticly unbalanced, this big beer captivates with fruity caramel malts and a healthy dose of florid Northwest hops that provide an offsetting, gentle piquancy.
Behind the big accolades subsists a small brewery mastered by Tonya Cornett, a meticulous brewer with an inventive spirit and community-oriented approach to her craft. Since its inception in early 1995, the downtown brewery was in many ways living in the shadow of its renowned neighbor, Deschutes Brewing.
A graduate of Siebel’s touted World Brewing Academy, Cornett took over the brewing reins in early 2001. I spoke with Cornett about her recent accomplishment, her force as a woman in the handcrafted brewing industry, and the future of Bend Brewing Company.
What has it been like to be a brewer in Bend, a town full of rich talent?
Tonya Cornett: It’s made me a lot better faster. I’m really into recipe development. I’m friends with a lot of the Deschutes brewers. We’ve passed ideas back and forth. They have been nothing but great to me and for me, because it has made me want to be better.
I felt coming into a town with so many brewers — I have to say there’s probably more great brewers per capita than anywhere else — it was a little intimidating. The brewers at Deschutes have become great friends. They actually accepted the award at GABF for me because I wasn’t there.
What is it like as a woman who brews beer — a beverage that is largely marketed toward men?
Cornett: First off, that’s what draws many people’s interest. But then, it puts a lot of pressure on me because so many people are focused on that. I feel like I really have to prove myself.
That’s another driving force on me, continually trying to make better beer. Winning the (GABF) medal, that was a big stamp of approval. Once at a brew festival, a brewer tried (a beer I brewed), tapped my husband on the shoulder and said, “That’s a great pilsner!” (My husband) said, “Oh, I didn’t make it, she did.”
It was in front of a group of brewers … half of them knew and half of them didn’t. Of course, those that knew thought it was so funny, and those who didn’t were totally shocked and embarrassed. But at the same time, it was a big pat on my back because it wasn’t something they expected, and I think that ended up being a positive.
What are your future goals in brewing?
Cornett: I think we’re going to get back to doing some really creative beers. I did it a lot last year, but this year, certain beers like the IPA have been flying out of here and that’s all I’ve been doing. So in the future I would like to be producing more high-end, eclectic styles.
Look for Bend Brewing’s beers periodically in Portland at the Horse Brass, Oaks Bottom, Concordia Ale House, and the soon-to-be-defunct Rose and Raindrop.
Bend’s Deschutes Brewery Expanding To Portland
Deschutes Brewery will open their first brew-pub outside of Bend! Lucky for us (and a smart move by the brewery) they decided Portland should have the honor. The location will be NW 11th and Davis near the Armory with an estimated opening in Fall of 2007.
Paws for a Brew? Or a Brew for your Paws?
Brewing has definitely gone to the dogs! Terrie Berenden, a pet shop owner in the southern Dutch town of Zelhem recently created a beer for her Weimaraners made from beef extract and malt. branded as Kwispelbier. "Once a year we go to Austria to hunt with our dogs, and at the end of the day we sit on the veranda and drink a beer. So we thought, my dog also has earned it," she said. The nonalcoholic brew was introduced to the market last week and advertised as "a beer for your best friend." The beer is fit for human consumption, Berenden said. But at $2.14 (or 1.65 euro) a bottle, it's about four times more expensive than a Heineken.
Minors No More
In a yet to be confirmed report from the Oregon Brewers Festival, after 19 years of promoting the Festival as a community event the OLCC announced that minors under the age of 21 will not be allowed on the Festival premises in 2007. If you disagree with the OLCC's decision, please contact executive director Stephen Pharo and let him know: 503-872-5000, 1-800-452-6522, or steve.pharo@state.or.us, http://www.oregonbrewfest.com/.
Save the Date
1st International Brewers Symposium, “Hop Flavor and Aroma”. August 9–10, 2007 Oregon State University in Corvallis. Call the American Society of Brewing Chemists (ASBC) at 651.454.7250 or go online to http://www.asbcnet.org/.
Topics to Discuss Over a Pint
No taxation without representation! The possibility of a new Oregon Beer Tax is generating a lot of discussion out there. So get informed and get active! Over the next couple of weeks, Guest on Tap will feature talking points regarding the brewing industry in Oregon. These will help to inform and inspire the debate. For example: Oregon Breweries have 11% of the market in Oregon (#1 in the US) & 38% of the beer that is made in Oregon is consumed in Oregon; Oregon breweries pay more than $700,000 in state excise tax; Oregon is the #2 craft beer market in the nation (21 million gal./year); Portland is the largest craft beer market in the nation and Portland has more breweries than any other city in the world; Oregon has 5 of the top 50 brewing companies in the US (all of them are craft brewers and none of them existed 25 years ago); Oregon has led the growth of the craft beer segment in the US (up 11% in 2004, 16% in 2005 and 24% in 2006).
For more information on the beer tax, check out the Oregon Brewer’s Guild website at http://oregonbeer.org/Taxtalk.pdf


