How Beer has changed in Oregon

BY Gary Corbin
Honorary Beer Scribe for Guest on Tap

Portlanders enjoy an amazing diversity of quality, locally made brews. As Preston Weesner of the Oregon Brewers Festival said recently, “The bottom line is, we here are the extreme haves in an industry of have-nots.”
It hasn’t always been like this. Thirty years ago, the only brewery in Portland was Henry’s, and in 1980, only 80 breweries were operating in the entire United States. “And the prediction was that there would only be 10 by 1990,” said beer brewer and writer Fred Eckhardt.
But by then the wheels of change already had started turning. A few entrepreneurs bucked the trend and opened small craft breweries: Charlie Coury was Oregon’s first commercial craft brewer, opening Cartwright’s in 1980. Unfortunately, the pioneering effort didn’t last; the county shut him down on New Year’s Day 1983.
That year, Oregon legalized brew-on-premises establishments, and soon after, the floodgates opened. In 1984, homebrewers Rob and Kurt Widmer cranked up their first batch of Altbier on Northwest 14th Avenue and Lovejoy Street, and winemakers Nancy and Dick Ponzi ventured some capital to open Bridgeport on Northwest Marshall Street.
In 1985, the McMenamin brothers opened their first brew pub in Hillsdale. Fred Bowman and Art Larrance opened Portland Brewing (now MacTarnahan’s) on Northwest Flanders Street in 1986.
That year, the trend went statewide, as Hood River Brewing opened and McMenamins opened new pubs in Lincoln City and Hillsboro.
Today, there are 56 breweries in Oregon — 40 of them brew pubs, according to the Oregon Brewers Guild. While the largest concentration is in the Portland area (33), craft breweries have sprung up in 28 cities large and small, from Ashland to Enterprise.
The expansion is not over. Several new breweries opened since 2005: Roots, Amnesia, Cascade Lakes, Karlsson’s, Clinton Street, Mash Tun, Willamette Brewing in Eugene, and soon, Max’s Fanno Creek Brew Pub in Tigard and Ninkasi in Eugene.
National chains have moved in, and former fledgling local entities are forming new regional chains. McMenamins, with more than 50 pubs now in operation in the Pacific Northwest (48 in Oregon), is now the third-largest chain in the country.
The Lucky Labrador just opened its third pub; Big Horn, Full Sail, Bridgeport and Wild River each have two. The Laurelwood has two and soon will open a third, one that will more than double its brewing capacity.
The interesting thing about this expansion is that it’s mostly pub-oriented — and that means, local to your neighborhood. The big brewers have left a lot of room for small operations to fill the niche any neighborhood or small town needs.
Elliot Glacier serves perhaps the smallest community — Parkdale, population 266 — but not far behind are Wild River in Cave Junction (1,440) and Bill’s in Cannon Beach (1,650). Like Elliot Glacier they are depending on tourists to shore up sales for the local drinkers. Whoever coined the phrase “Think globally, drink locally” must have been thinking about (and drinking in) Oregon.
So, the next time you walk into your favorite pub and it takes you several minutes just to choose from the wide beer selection, remember Preston’s words: We’re spoiled now.
I don’t know about you, but I like it better this way.
Beer News for Beer Week
Tonight: Tuesday, July 25 th is The Oregon Brewers Dinner 5:30 PM to 8:30 PM. If you have not been to this event, you are missing one of the best chances to meet some of the biggest name in the craft beer industry. It is at Tom McCall’s Waterfront Park. Tickets just $35($30 for SNOBs) #503.288.BREW or
Wednesday, July 26 th:IPA Blind Tasting McCall’s Waterfront Park 5 PM to 9 PM #503.778.5917
Thursday, July 27 thThe Imperial Beers Celebration at Concordia Ale House featuring over 10 plus taps of Oregon Craft Beers and others surprises! One being Terminal Gravity along with other great beers will be poured all day or while supplies last. (Concordia Ale House 3276 NE Killingsworth, Pdx. # 503.287.3929)
Thursday July 27 th –Sunday July, 30 th: The Oregon Brewers Festival: 4 PM to 9 PM Thursday; noon to 9 PM Friday & Saturday; noon to 7 PM Sunday #503.778.5917
Friday, July 28 th-Sasquatch Brew-Am Golf Tournament! - McMenamins Edgefield Inn hosts this celebrity benefit for the Glen Hay Falconer Foundation!
Golf from 8 AM to 1 PM (ask about the beer bus to the event) Pair up with celebrity brewers for a round of golf at one of the coolest courses in the area. More info http://www.sasquatchbrewfest.org/ or email <> McMenims Edgefield Inn call# 503-669-8610
Duffers can take a FREE "beer bus," sponsored by Rogue, to and from the event. Golfers need to be at Rogue Public House, 1339 NW Flanders, at 7 a.m.
for the free bus. Ask anybody who took the bus last year: It's a fun, fun time!
Saturday, July 29 th-Double Imperial IPA Fest: A large number of Imperial IPAs will pour in the restaurant’s parking lot. Judging will take place from noon to 6 PM. The public is encouraged to vote for People’s Choice. Event is at The Rose and Raindrop (532 S.E. Grand, Pdx. # 503.238.6996 http://www.roseandraindrop.com/)